By Katya Marletta
THIS IS FASHION MADE BY HUMAN STORIES
AW18 is inspired by a collective of 25 unique women who embody the Teatum Jones spirit – Bold, confident, creative and smart – including women such as models Munroe Bergdorf, Kelly Knox, singer Foxes, editor Sophia Neophitou and activist Caryn Franklin. By asking these women from different social back grounds, different ages and different ethnicities three questions about their most instinctive human emotions, Teatum Jones have taken us on a journey through their moments of intense joy, sadness and hope. These intimate and sometimes raw conversations have been recorded in a film to be premiered throughout the AW18 catwalk show. In spite of their differences, they are united by their moments of intense joy, sadness and hope. This is Global Womanhood.
COLOUR, PATTERNS, FABRICS …
The AW18 collection is presented in three chapters based on these three instinctive emotions. The unity of these shared emotions is tied together in a series of floral and geometric prints and jacquards that sit within a colour palette representing each of the emotive themes.
Intense joy manifests in a palette of explosive red and burgundy tones, passionate pinks and crisp cornflour blue. Neon pink florals are flocked onto vibrant red organza in pleated asymmetric hem lines and gathered sleeves. Fluid two-tone super wide pant suits sit alongside two tone chunky British knits and voluminous magenta silk satins.
Intense sadness reveals itself in a palette of deep midnight navy, intense royal blue and fresh winter ivory. An almost black-navy is woven as textural fil-coupe and panelled with pleated silk satins. Oversized graphic florals are flocked onto tonal navy organzas in pleated skirts, dresses and over-dyed silk satins. Draped tops are layered beneath signature large-scale geometric jacquards woven with chunky woollen yarns.
Hope is brought together in a simple fresh palette of white, ivory and cream. Injected with bright mustard, soaring reds and a rich bordeaux. Hand painted florals printed onto jacquard silks are gathered into exaggerated draped sleeves in dresses, tops and reimagined Teatum Jones shirt dresses.
SHAPES, SILHOUETTES …
The AW18 collection features a series of classic Teatum Jones silhouettes that offer our women a striking balance of reality with romance. Signature oversized statement coats, tailored suits with belted eyelet straps and fluid, poetic dresses feature with tiers of gathered sleeves and asymmetric hem lines. Movement of fabric is key to the AW18 silhouettes as seen in the signature pleated handkerchief hems and overflowing gathered sleeves of the Alex Dress. Fluidity and movement of these pieces demonstrate femininity, empowerment and a freedom in expressing these three core emotions.
A/W18 – GLOBAL WOMANHOOD
Sensual suiting is updated with deep pleated wide leg pants and even stronger shoulders lines. Signature cut out sleeves previously reserved for knitwear moves into elevated tailoring in crepe evening jackets in crisp snow white.
Signature industrial sized eyelets continue to feature adjustable straps and embellish the back of coats in a playful nod to winter layers and bold hand painted prints that lay beneath.
EDITORS NOTES …
Working with British merino wool specialists John Smedley, Teatum Jones have collaborated to create a capsule of AW18 knitwear dresses, oversized cropped roll necks and signature cut out sweaters. Collaborating with Christian Louboutin for a second season, show shoes have been designed especially for the AW18 collection. Jewellery in collaboration with All Blues.
We would like to take this opportunity to thank each of our 25 women for taking part in our Global Womanhood study and for being so open and powerfully honest.
Anne Marie Sanguini – Activist, Founding Member of Sisters Uncut
Beth Greenacre – Art Curator
BETSY – Singer Songwriter
Betty Bachz – Model & Designer
Bishi – Musician & Performance Artist
Caryn Franklin MBE – Fashion Activist & Professor of Diversity
Clara Amfo – BBC Radio Presenter
Eve Henderson – British Fashion Trust
Farida Sharma – YouTube Creator
Foxes – Singer
Gemma Metheringham – Creative Director of Label/Mix
Isabella McPherson – British Fashion Trust
Jess McGuire Dudley – Creative Director of John Smedley
Jo Dyce – Dancer and Choreographer
Katie Leamon – Creative Director of Katie Leamon
Kelly Knox – Model and Activist
Marai Larassi MBE – Director of Imkaan – Against violence to black minority women
Melanie Rickey – Editor & Writer
Munroe Bergdorf – Model and Activist
AW18 – GLOBAL WOMANHOOD
Nawal Gebreel – Lybian Textile Designer
Polly Russell – British Library Curator of Feminist History
Rosa Hoskins – Actress and Writer
Sian Thomas – Creative Director of Triumph
Sofia Barattieri Weinstein –Digital Brand Consultant. Executive Committee and Patron of BFC Fashion Trust.
Sophia Neophitou – Editor-in-chief of 10 Magazine & Creative Director of Victoria’s Secret